Billy Hunter reports
5 November 2009, Brescia - Brescia and its
surrounding area has always been the most important manufacturing centre for
hosiery and sock manufacturing machinery as well as home to many internationally
renowned producers of socks and hosiery. Last month’s FIMAST (International
Textile Machinery and Accessories Trade Show) held at Brixia Expo - Fiera di
Brescia, proved that the Italian and European hosiery machine building industry
is still a dynamic force to be reckoned with and that FIMAST in Brescia is a
viable and desirable alternative to FAST which ceased to exist after it was last
held in 2005.
Launching
a new exhibition for the hosiery machinery sector in Brescia was the brain
child of some of Italy’s leading machine builders including Busi Giovanni,
Cesare Colosio and Cortese. Speaking at the opening of the event Fiera di
Brescia’s Managing Director, Dr. Marco Citterio said that his organization had accepted
the challenge launched by a group of entrepreneurs who lost the trade show that
had represented them until 2005.
“We
at Fiera di Brescia have always believed that trade shows offer many pluses.
They make it possible for people to meet and exchange ideas, which is very
difficult to do through any other media or channel,” said Citterio. “A show is
still the best promotional instrument. Modern media have made everything
faster, but they have not been able to replace contact and dialogue between
people. At times of crisis, like today, networking and understanding the
general feeling become even more important,” Citterio added.
Despite
the short time available, FIMAST organisers say it actually obtained excellent
results and attracted key Italian companies, industry leaders, and a number of international
players. Around 60 exhibitors, of which 10 were non Italian, attended the show which
was held in the 5000 square metre Hall 2.
“It
already looks like FIMAST 2009 will be extremely successful for companies and
members of the trade. From its humble beginning as a minor event, FIMAST is
expected to become one of the most important trade shows for the textile
industry. The first, start up edition is meant to be more of a meeting point
between a group of selected companies and trade members than a traditional
trade show. That is why we do not expect record numbers this time, but we know
record numbers will come shortly” said Carlo Massoletti, President of BRIXIA
EXPO - Fiera di Brescia.
Double Layer sock
Most of the shows highlights came from the leading Italian
knitting machine builders and there were some very innovative products. Botticino
(BS) based sock knitting machine builder Busi Giovanni launched its new
patented ‘Idea Twin Layer’ cylinder and dial machine which was producing a
football sock with integrally knitted pocket for housing shin guards at the
show. The model on show was a 4 inch, 168 needles, 36 gauge machine fitted with
the optional classic toe linking device.
“As it is based on the 404 Idea Terry machine, the 404 Twin
Layer has all the same knitting possibilities as the original machine. In
addition to this, using the dial needles and a special patented device which is
integrated in the dial itself, the machine can produce double layer socks. It
is possible to knit two fabrics at the same time on the Twin Layer, one inside
the other. The external sock is produced in the conventional way on the
cylinder needles while the internal sock is knitted by the dial needles,” said Busi
machine designer Ing. Alessandro Corti.
“This gives the opportunity to use completely independent yarns
with different fibre content for the inside and outside of the sock, which
according to Busi opens up new perspectives in the field of technical sport
socks. The double layer structure can be extended to the complete sock. In this
case the two fabrics are joined at the welt, at the heel and at the toe which prevents
the sliding of the inner layer in relation to the outer layer.” Ing. Corti
added.
Busi’s Export Manager, Federica Ambrosi told Knitting
Industry: “It is also possible to knit socks with the double layer in a
selected part of the sock, for example only in the sole and/or in the heel. An
interesting application is the possibility to create pouches inside the socks,
like for example the shin-pad holding pouch attached inside a football sock as produced
at the show.”
Another possibility with
the Idea Twin Layer is to create reinforced areas with the double layer having any
desired shape which can be placed in any part of the leg and/or foot. On all of
the available machine diameters it is possible to install the Rimaglio option
that will produce a sock having the toe closed automatically with ‘loop by loop’
linking.
‘True rib’ on single
cylinder
Busi says
its new addition to the Idea range, the Idea Doppio, is the only single
cylinder machine in the market with latch needles in the dial with the
capability of producing true rib socks with more than one needle in the rib, e.g.
2x2 rib. Normally cylinder and dial hosiery machines make for example 3x1, 5x1,
7x1 rib, i.e. in the case of 5x1 this is produced using 5 cylinder needles and
1 dial needle. “The Idea Doppio makes rib socks just like a double cylinder
machine,” says Ing. Corti.
Thanks to the company’s patented method, the machine allows
the production of socks with 2x2, 4x2, 5x2, 6x2, 7x2 etc., ribs. One of the two
312 Idea Doppio models on show was actually producing a 9x2 rib sock, the
second was knitting a 5x3 rib sock. According to Busi the only limitation in
terms of the type of rib the machine can knit is the needle count.
Colosio 240 needle HT 25
New
from Rezzato (BS) based Cesare Colosio at
FIMAST was a 240 needle version of the company’s HT 25 two feed single cylinder machine for the production of
men’s, women’s and children’s socks with 5 colour per course motif with
optional automatic toe closing device. Technical features of the C15 Terry include
an onboard memory for 10 different products, production of 3 different articles
in sequence and transfer of a new item during the working cycle. No mechanical
change is needed when changing from plain to terry and the machine makes ‘fast’
heel and toe without the need for a picker.
Budget C15 Terry
Also
on show also at the Colosio stand was the company’s low cost Far East ‘joint
venture’ machine, the C15 Terry. According to company director Fabiana Colosio:
“The C15 Terry is constructed 50% in Italy and 50% in the Far East.” Ms Colosio
would not be drawn on the exact manufacturing location in the Far East but
instead wanted to emphasise that at a price of 11,000 Euros per machine, it
represented extremely good value for Colosio design, engineering and innovation.
The C15 Terry is a single feed, single cylinder machine for the production of men’s,
women’s and children’s terry socks with 5 colours per course motif. The machine
is drumless and fully computerised and can produce approximately 30 dozen ankle
socks in 24 hours, Colosio says.
144 needle Colosio RISE TR
Another
new addition for FIMAST was a 144 needle version of Colosio’s RISE TR fully electronic
single cylinder machine for women’s and children’s socks and tights. The
machine has pelerine transfer in two feeds and pelerine with 3 motif colours
per course. Other knitting possibilities with the RISE TR are 12 colours sock, 3
ground colours with additional colours for heel and toe, plain fabric with 3 motif
colours per course, filet stitch with 2 colours per course. Mock rib, 8 colour
jacquard and patterned double welt with pelerine.
Colosio
also demonstrated its well known Magica true Argyle machine, an electronic
intarsia machine for the production of True Argyle, True Argyle with sandwich
terry in the foot, jacquard in 4 feeds and motif.
'Breathing socks' with impact protection
Terry
sock machine specialist Rumi showed its latest machine for technical socks, the
Seven TS. The Seven TS, which the company says is unique to Rumi allows the
manufacturer to put together pelerine or mesh pattern with terry or pile. The
machine, which is covered by two separate patents, was officially launched at
FIMAST but company owner and director Stefano Rumi said that the company had
already started to sell the Seven TS to its customers.
“The
concept here is to produce ‘breathing socks’ which have mesh pattern to let in
air where required and terry in the impact areas for protection,” Mr Rumi said.
“The Seven Ts is not restricted to sports socks and is suited to the production
of performance socks for outdoor activities such as hiking and for medical
applications where different properties are required in different zones of the
sock. The next development will be automatic toe closing for the Seven TS.” Mr
Rumi added.
The
Seven TS is a single cylinder, single feed machine with 7 yarn fingers for the
main feed and 12 yarn fingers for the pattern formation. The machine has an
independent elastic yarn finger. It has individual needle selection and
independent adjustment of ground, heel and transfer stitch through step motors.
The 144 needle, 3 ¾ inch diameter, 36 gauge Seven TS on show was producing a
blue and black sock with mesh and terry zones positioned strategically
throughout the sock (see image right).
Easy Toe retrofit for
single cylinder machines
Another FIMAST highlight was the official launch of NTA’s
Easy Toe automatic toe closing attachment which the company says can easily be
fitted to a very wide range of single cylinder sock knitting machines.
NTA srl, which was founded in 2005, may be a relative
newcomer to the Italian hosiery machine building industry as a company, but it
has a long Florentine pedigree in building hosiery machines. The company which
has only recently begun marketing its products following an intensive R&D
period from 2005 is led by industry stalwarts, Managing Director Giancarlo
Meoni, Sales Manager Massimo Venni and Technical Manager Gianni Conti, formerly
of the famous Florentine sock machine builder Conti.
“Easy Toe is a cost reduction exercise which can be
retrofitted to most Lonati and Sangiacomo single cylinder sock knitting machines
which amounts to about 80% of the single cylinder machines working in the world
today,” says Sales Manager, Massimo Venni.
The Easy Toe system on show at FIMAST was fitted to a Lonati
Goal machine but Mr Venni said that versions of Easy Toe for both Matec and
Sangiacomo machines would be production ready soon.
“The Easy Toe system uses sewing rather than linking as it
is much faster. It is not only for sports socks as you see here at the
exhibition and we fit it to machines ranging from 72 needles up to 168 needles.
In future we will develop towards even finer gauges.” Mr Venni added.
In terms of production capacity, NTA says it has no fewer
than seven companies it works with in the Florence area. According to Massimo
Venni , all of these companies were either Matec or Conti suppliers, so they
know the job very well. FIMAST was NTA’s first exhibition since its launch and
the company, which says it is now supplying products in Italy and Turkey will now
target USA, Brazil and other markets.
Rosso Fulltronic toe
closing
Orbassano (TO) based sock linking machine specialist Rosso
Industrie showed its latest Fulltronic automatic linking in-line system with
pre-turner for socks pre-seaming, mock linking (Rosso 025) and Ultraturn 6000.
Giuseppe Rosso explained to Knitting Industry: “The Rosso 025
Fulltronic is an electronically programmed linear linking machine for the toe
closing of men’s, women’s and children’s socks in all gauges, where all of the
machine adjustments are made via the controller. The Ultraturn 6000
automatically turns linked socks of any gauge or size and does not require
skilled operators. Changing from one gauge to another is carried out via the
computer and requires no manual adjustment.”
“We have integrated the pre-turner with the Rosso 025 mock
linker and Ultraturn 6000 to give producers the perfect solution for sock toe
closing.”
FIMAST: satisfactory outcome
Although
no figures have been released, organisers say that FIMAST was well attended,
especially given the short time frame available for organising and marketing
the event. Details and dates for the next FIMAST have not yet been released.
“We
had to wait for the right set of conditions to organize a trade show which
represented us and gave us the opportunity of a dialogue for a long time.
FIMAST 2009 was conceived by a small group of businessmen sitting around a
table with the common objective of re-creating the show we had lost four years
before, when FAST was held for the last time in 2005,” said Gianmarco Busi,
Managing Director of Busi Giovanni srl.
“Brescia
is the ideal location to continue our growth both as an industrial district and
individual companies. Brescia is the city where the industry was actually born.
Fiera di Brescia was the strategic partner to start and finalize this project
which finds its natural location in Brescia, home to the majority of hosiery
and knitting machine manufacturers.” Mr Busi added.
“Through FIMAST we want to give a very positive signal to the market, an additional
input to overcome the economic crisis and face the strong competition of the
past few years with more serenity; in particular the competition from Far
Eastern countries which cannibalize prices and reduce margins”.
Speaking
just before the FIMAST exhibition opened, Ugo Ferraboli , Area Manager of Cesare
Colosio SpA said: “Among all current trade shows there was none which could
give members of the European textile industry the only possible opportunity of
promoting themselves. Therefore, they risked disappearing obscured by trade
show events organized by big textiles manufacturers.”
“This
new show appointment is meant to become a meeting point for a small market
niche which needs a trade show to gather information, meet and exchange ideas
about the new trends. We expect members of the trade, media and institutions to
be very interested in this first edition of FIMAST. The four show days are a
great opportunity to make ourselves heard and fight the economic crisis. FIMAST
has already everything it takes to become a major trade show. We trust institutions
and trade associations will support us with our ambitious project in the
future,” added Mr Ferraboli.
Angelo
Cortese, Managing Director of Cortese SpA said: “I am extremely pleased with
the excellent results obtained in such a short period of time. The approval and
support from both exhibitors and trade confirm the validity of this project.
The hosiery and knitting machine sector needed a dedicated event which could
represent all active manufacturing forces.”
“In
just a few months we have been able to combine strengths, ideas and know how to
start a show like FIMAST which, from its very first edition, had to rely on
strong foundation to assure continuity. We are already working on the next show
which will be probably held in Hall 1 and will host not only exhibits but also
conventions, formative workshops, round tables and show cases. Fiera di
Brescia, its Managing Director, Marco Citterio, and staff have proved to be up
for the situation and have created an appointment that already works as a
reference point for the national and international textile industry”.