1 March 2010, Obertshausen - Warp knitters from around the
world braved the cold snowy weather in late January when they attended Karl
Mayer’s in-house exhibition of their DJ Smart Seamless technology in
Obertshausen near Frankfurt. Heavy snow fall caused runway closures at
Frankfurt airport on the Monday night and Tuesday morning but in the end only a
few visitors were slightly delayed and show went on as planned.
Around 70 attendees on Tuesday 26th and Wednesday 27th
January were hosted by Karl Mayer’s Directors, Senior Managers and Staff and treated
to a programme including a welcome by Mr Fritz P. Mayer, Managing Director,
talks on the DJ by the company’s commercial experts and a presentation of the
DJ in the company’s showroom.
The event took place in Karl Mayer’s recently constructed Development
Centre, which houses around two hundred of the company’s research development
and training personnel. The spacious showroom houses running machines in all of
the company’s main technologies and models and DJ machine demonstrations were
followed by one to one consultations between customers and Karl Mayer’s
commercial staff.
Background to seamless warp knitting
In 1980 first double needle bar raschel machine with
jacquard system was built by Nippon Mayer, Japan,a Karl Mayer subsidiary, mainly
for production of panty hose. In 1999 the company delivered the first RDPJ 6/2
machines with 138 inch working width in gauge E24 with electronic Piezo
Jacquard system and today there are 56 machines in use worldwide. Karl Mayer’s
biggest customer in Europe for this machine model is Cifra S.p.A. from Italy
which runs about 20 machines and in Asia it is the Seiren Group in Japan.
Seamless Smart introduced
In 2008 the company introduced the so called ‘Seamless
Smart’ DJ 4/2, a machine with a 44 inch
working width in gauge E24 and it has sold 10 machines to date. In 2009 Karl
Mayer introduced its sister model the DJ 6/2, 44 inch machine in gauge E28 with
electronic pattern drive system (EL) and the company is now set to further
expand the range in 2010. One of the company’s new developments could be a 32
gauge machine but it is unclear at this stage when the machine will be ready
for testing.
Ultra fine gauge
Managing Director of seamless pioneer Cifra, Cesare Citterio
told Knitting Industry that a 32 gauge machine would definitely be of interest
to his company for a whole new range of products for intimate apparel. Cifra is
highly experienced in using warp knitting technology to produce seamless
garments. Having first invested in the technology 20 years ago the company has acquired
vast knowledge in processing an extremely wide range of materials and is now
even experimenting with natural fibres such as cotton.
“It is important to be able to react flexibly to the various
demands of the market, especially when faced with the continuing economic
crisis.” Fritz P. Mayer.
Karl Mayer’s Managing Director, Fritz P. Mayer, after welcoming
the assembled guests, emphasized the importance of being able to react flexibly
to the various demands of the market, especially when faced with the continuing
economic crisis. With the development of the new Seamless Smart model, Karl
Mayer’s aim is to cater for these demands. During the course of a presentation on
the theory of the machine’s performance potential, combined with the
opportunity to view the actual production processes, the guests were able to
get an idea of the competitive advantages offered by the company’s double-bar
raschel machines.
High speed
A DJ 6/2 EL, which was producing a ladies’ dress with a
drawstring waistband, and a DJ 4/2, which was knitting a stretch top, were exhibited
in the company’s showroom. Both garments were being produced at high speed and
in one piece construction. Whereas the DJ 6/2 EL double-bar raschel machine
with six guide bars can operate at maximum speeds of 375rpm, producing 5.8
complete dresses per hour, the four guide bar DJ 4/2 can operate at speeds of
up to 450rpm. This was equivalent to 10.7 tops per hour for the model being
shown at the in-house event.
The DJ 6/2 EL gauge E28, 44 inch, which runs at speeds from
350-700rpm and was knitting an elastic seamless garment, was set up as follows:
GB 1+8 – 44 dtex Lycra elastane
GB 2+7 – dtex 44 f 34 polyamide 6.6, textured, round,
semi-dull
PJB 3+4 – dtex 76 f 32 polyester, textured, round, dull
PJ 5+6 – dtex 76 f 32 polyester, textured, round, dull
The DJ 4/2 Seamless Smart machine in E24, 44 inch was set up
as follows:
GB 1+6 – dtex 22 elastane covered with dtex 33 f 20 plyamide
6.6 air jet textured
PJB 4+5 – dtex 22 elastane, covered with dtex 33 f 20
polyamide 6.6, air jet textured
Karl Mayer says the machines in the DJ series are not only
fast but they are also extremely flexible. A wide range of patterning options
and the possibility of being able to change over the design quickly guarantee a
high production rate, even when processing small batches, which is an important
requirement for being successful in niche segments, the company says.
Fish net tights
Guests at the machinery exhibition showed strong interest
and Karl Mayer says some lively discussions were held between customers and its
sales staff. According to Karl Mayer, one of the main areas of interest was the
production of fish net tights where the DJ machines offer the possibility to manufacture
tubular structures of different diameters along with the specific placing of
holes and/or net patterns, requiring a minimum of making-up whilst offering a
maximum of diversity.
Quick change
Customers were also said to be interested in the DJ’s
potential with regard to design change in the sophisticated and complex fashion
market with its short collection cycles. Manufacture of fashion items such as dresses,
skirts and shirts produced in longitudinal direction, side by side and offering
a wide range of patterns was also said to be a prominent subject.
Medical and sportswear applications
Production of medical and sports textiles with seamlessly
integrated functional zones, contouring, defined placing of certain features
and predetermined sizes were of interest to certain customers who attended from
the medical textiles and sportswear sectors. High efficiency during the
manufacturing process was also of course also a key subject area for
discussion.
Karl Mayer says that in the course of the discussions it
became evident that the DJ machine series offers a lot of new ideas and fresh
impetus as well as numerous possibilities for all these application areas.
Further reading
Karl
Mayer moves seamlessly into New Year
Seamless
Smart – gives the hosiery market a boost