Interfiliere – exhibitor highlights

September 2008, Paris – For their first September session in Paris, Interfilière and Mode City welcomed 25,040 visitors (up 24.8%). Two thirds of visitors came from 113 different countries.

New points of reference for a new location this session confirm Interfilière’s position as the must-see fabrics event for the start of the new season. In a vibrant and busy atmosphere, Interfilière’s 325 exhibitors confirmed their success in meeting clients: 6% increase in gold buyers and fabrics buyers, the show’s target sector, as well as fabrics buyers and designers from brands exhibiting at Mode City. The quality of exchange and the setting were ideal for both visitors and exhibitors, creating an exciting, convivial and laid-back atmosphere.

Here, KnittingIndustry.com takes a look at some of the exhibitor highlights.

LIGHTS ARE THE WAY FORWARD FOR RIPA

2007 has been a very good year for the Italian company Maglificio Ripa with growth of 10%, which can largely be attributed to the “Light” collection of lightweight fabrics. Over half the company’s fabric sales for sportswear and lingerie involved Light products. Created in 2002 and now translated into four lines ranging from 50 - 250g, there are currently some dozen varieties of Light products, including the two latest arrivals: 54-gauge Light UltraLight (from the Light The Only One range) and 44-gauge Light Bio-Fabric, a new range created in accordance with an ethical corporate process, involving respect for the environment, organic cotton and all-Italian production. The export sales team has been stepped up since last July with two key objectives: developing exports and opening up new markets. With a strong position in the lingerie and sportswear sector, Maglificio Ripa intends to establish an identity in the outerwear sectors over the next two years and is even seeking to become a major player.

BRUGNOLI GIOVANNI FOCUSES ON EXPORT

With turnover of €150 million, the Italian company is starting to feel a little cramped on its peninsula. Established 50 years ago, Brugnoli can certainly be proud of the fact that it supplies all the biggest names in European design, starting with the Italians - Versace, Cavalli, Dolce & Gabbana, Armani - but also Hermes, Dior, Yves Saint Laurent, Lacoste, Eres and Hugo Boss. Originally a cotton specialist, Brugnoli now offers a very upmarket collection, featuring fine fabrics in MicroModal, linen and polyamide, with which it intends to develop export sales.

Considerably expanded and based around new MicroModal/polyamide piece-dyed fabrics with a mottled, loungewear look, little jacquards, voiles and very light “Oxygen” polyamides (55g), the collection is equally in demand for ready-to-wear (40%) and lingerie (35%). Sportswear makes up the remaining 25%.

CORVETT-SPITZEN LAUNCHES ORGANIC COLLECTION

The German specialist in stretch and non-stretch lace is now offering a line of organic lace. Following a meticulous development process over several seasons, the organic lace range in a blend of cotton, polyester and acrylic has been created using organic Swiss cotton, with 45% cotton for heavier laces, up to a maximum of 65% cotton, beyond which it is no longer possible to create high-quality laces. The line is available in a variety of floral and geometric motifs. Despite a slightly higher price (10%), customers’ initial impressions have been highly satisfactory. Corvett-Spitzen should be consolidating the success of this brand new line during the 3-day show.

PIAVE MAITEX UPDATES ITS TOPTEX LINE

The Toptex high-tech line launched by Piave Maitex in 1996, using a special patented and often imitated knitting process, is being expanded to include a new Toptex Olympia comfort range of fine, breathable knits offering square elasticity (four-way stretch), ideal for so-called second-skin articles. In addition to the comfort and fit of these soft and quick-dry knits, the Toptex Olympia line offers interesting technical performances thanks to the inclusion of chlorine-resistant Xtra Life Lycra®. “Toptex Olympia is the ultimate response to the demand for high performance, innovation, technology and quality. The fabric’s very special weave gives the impression that it is even finer and lighter. We offer a choice of 12 different colours,” underlined Enrico Serafini. Piave Maitex is also presenting a new line of jacquard stripes (A world of stripes) and has added a White Diamond line, using Super White Lycra ®, to its Black Diamond range with Black Lycra ®. White Diamond is used to create a very luminous finish, while Black Diamond offers colour-change effects.

CREORA ATTRACTS BIG-NAME DESIGNERS

Hyosung, the world’s second largest elastane producer, is reinforcing its presence in the hosiery sector thanks to the success of Creora®. The fibre’s performances have won-over a number of major brands: Sarah Borghi, Emilio Cavalli, Pompea and Penti are all presenting new tights collections using Creora®. Sarah Borghi, a major Italian tights brand, manufactured by Gizetta has selected 15 denier H-350, as well as 20 and 140 den C-100 for waistbands. Emilio Cavalli picked out Creora® H-350 for its exceptional elasticity and hold. Pompea is using a number of references, including low heat-settable C-400 and Creora® black. With a reputation for innovative design, Penti’s Ogretmen brand, the leader in the Turkish market uses Creora C-400, C-100 and H-250 in a variety of deniers. Like Pompea, Penti has been working with Hyosung for a number of years and appreciates the various versions of Creora® for their technical performances as well as the many creative possibilities offered.

LOUIS VIDON HOPES TO BECOME A REFERENCE IN SPACER FABRICS

With an objective of lightening spacers to render them ultra-flat, Louis Vidon has developed a vast collection of spacers for Interfilière. As fine as bonded fabrics but without the disadvantages, the knit specialist’s new spacers come in a variety of jacquards, embossed and two-tone options. All in all, there are around one hundred references, featuring diverse finishes – sheer, floral, geometric – in a wide range of weights and thicknesses. Spacers are sure to be one of Louis Vidon’s key products at the show.

TAUBERT PLAYS THE PROXIMITY CARD

Since opening last September, the Chinese unit Heshen Taubert Textil Ltd has enabled Taubert to multiply its production capacities, serving customers who manufacture in China directly on-site. Situated within easy reach of Hong Kong, the unit employs 50 people and is currently limited to producing basic products. Taubert has discretely informed us that, while the rest of the collection is produced in Germany, the Chinese unit is currently learning a variety of new techniques. On the other hand, it is not involved in the new jacquard technique to be unveiled at Interfilière and which looks set to become, for the time being at least, the jewel in the crown of German production.

A GOOD YEAR FOR BOSELLI

The well-performing stretch woven product line for lingerie and corsetry has enabled Boselli to end 2007 on a positive note. Available in a variety of patterns and plains, prints and jacquards, these wonderfully silky fabrics combine the comfort qualities of a knit with the refinement and detail of jacquards specific to woven products. The trend for light and sheer properties encourages the development of these top-end articles which have been just as popular and in demand during the first half of 2008. Feeling confident for 2008, which is thus starting off as well as 2007, Boselli can also rely on its new soft two-way stretch Argento, in plain, satin-finish or jacquard, as well as its new highly realistic ink-jet prints featuring branches and landscapes.

SOLSTISS INCREASES ITS MARKET SHARE IN LINGERIE

A leader in the ready-to-wear and Haute Couture market, the Caudry-based lacemaker Solstiss intends to make lingerie a veritable complementary activity. Patrick Lasvignes, Commercial Director in the lingerie department nevertheless explained that “it is not vital to the company.” Representing 3% of business in 2004, this figure has risen to 10% four years later. The objective is to reach 20%. With the Calais lace market facing stiff competition from Asian, Turkish and Thai production, as well as challenges from countries such as Sri-Lanka and Latvia, French production must use the creativity of its products to stand out from the crowd. This is one of the strengths of Solstiss, which is capable of regulating its 110 Leavers machines to obtain a variety of different assemblies and highly creative laces. Service is another of the company’s strongpoints, in particular the possibility of offering small quantities of just 300 to 400m.

GOOD PERFORMANCES FOR LIEBAERT

The Belgian knitter ended 2007 with a rise of almost 15%. This good performance can be attributed to the high demand for spacer fabrics and in particular coordinating jacquard spacers. Liebaert’s efforts have therefore paid off since it has developed coordinated collections around single designs over the last few seasons. The company has fine-tuned certain machines to vary the knit constructions for a higher or lower yarn delivery and can work on a zone-by-zone basis, in particular for fine gauges, which are particularly appreciated by Barbara. 2008 should be the year of the so-called “space-less” spacer fabrics, created using 3D knitting of a double fabric, ideal for moulding on plus-sizes. Liebaert is also relying on a new collection of mini jacquards

PLYMOUTH AIMS TO CONSOLIDATE LEADERSHIP

The French company Plymouth, Europe’s leading manufacturer of elastic rubber tape, intends to stay at the top. Established 70 years ago and now directed by Daniel Arnaud, the company was the first to offer a wide range of rubber and plastic products, using natural and synthetic rubber, as early as 1940. The arrival, in the 1970s, of elasticated nappies and non-woven articles allowed Plymouth to establish its position in the market for elastic rubber tape. With average growth of 35% in the last few years, the company, which is based in Feyzin (Rhone-Alpes) and employs some hundred people, achieved turnover of €19 million last year. 45% of sales were generated by exports. Plymouth is pulling out the stops to hold onto its leading position: its priority objectives are to innovate, develop the range and monitor high-potential markets. To achieve this, it has just reinforced its R&D department with 3 new researchers and is developing a number of partnerships with research laboratories. Another key strategy involves sending researchers out into the field, in direct contact with its customers to learn about each of their specific requirements.

FULL STEAM AHEAD FOR SIVA

Siva has been making the most of its “Siva Advanced” commercial office, situated in Shanzen close to Hong Kong, since the month of January. Opened with a Chinese partner and employing local staff, the office monitors each stage in the on-site production process – from sampling through to order reporting – and delivers directly to US, Italian and Australian customers. Specializing in lace for the last 45 years and based near Milan, Siva employs around 80 people in an entirely vertical structure. Integrated production processes include yarn-twisting, cutting, printing and dyeing, as well as finishing and the application of silicone onto strips. Efforts regarding exports, particularly to South Africa, Australia and the United States have paid off with Siva increasing international sales by 10% to reach 60% this year. The new collection, covered by the Siva Autosoft patent, features invisible grip-edge laces and gives centre stage to flocked velvet laces, microfibre tulles with multicoloured transfer-prints, “natural” laces with a cotton-look staple yarn and metallic all-over print laces.

INVISTA LAUNCHES LYCRA 2.0 TAPE TECHNOLOGY

Lycra 2.0 Tape is a heat-activated elastic adhesive. It is the first patented product to have emerged from the brand new “Lycra 2.0 Garment Technology” technological platform. The advantages of Lycra 2.0 Tape include its stretch and recovery, allowing garments to hug the body, smooth aesthetics due to the absence of stitching or bulky elastics, long-lasting comfort, and guaranteed durability, even after 50 washes. The launch of this innovation was accompanied by an international design contest, involving 80 students selected from different universities in the UK, Hong Kong, Milan and New York. The judges looked at the students’ capacity to make the most of the stretch and recovery qualities of Lycra 2.0 Tape, as well as the creativity and commercial potential of their designs.

RADICI GROUP PRESENTS ITS LATEST INNOVATION

The Italian fibre producer took advantage of its presence at Interfilière to unveil Nanofeel, a synthetic fibre created using the latest nanotechnologies. Designed for intimate apparel and sportswear, Nanofeel is enriched with silver ions which are incorporated into the fibre matrix before spinning. The antimicrobial properties of this silver-based additive contribute to reducing bacterial proliferation in fabrics and the development of unpleasant odours. The advantages in terms of comfort, freshness and hygiene are much appreciated by consumers. Furthermore, the fibre manufacturing process uses “clean” technology, free of harmful biocides. Radici Group also made the most of the trade show for the market launch of Radilon Startouch, a new arrival in the family of Radilon PA6 microfibres, ideal for the knits and intimate markets thanks to their vast dyeing potential with a palette of no less than 96 colours.

DOGI OFFERS A FEMININE TAKE ON SPORTSWEAR

Dogi is presenting Active Daily, a new range of polyamide elastane knits designed for ladies’ sportswear. Production will mainly be concentrated at three production sites in Spain, China and the US for faster delivery to customers. Active Daily consists of three distinct lines, two using Xtra Dry by Nurel, with permanent moisture-wicking capabilities thanks to the active ingredient inherent in the fibre, and one using Aerocool, Hyosung’s four-channel cross-section fibre, with particularly effective moisture-wicking qualities. Dogi is also developing its Winn range of Novarel by Nurel microencapsulated knits, with a new Aloe Vera and Vitamin E-based anti-aging ingredient, Antiox. It is also launching two new swimwear knits using Xtra Life Lycra: chlorine-resistant AquaXtrême and MicroSwim Plus, a moisture-wicking circular knit.

RIEDL TEXTIL PUTS SILK IN THE SPOTLIGHT

Better known for its sports knits and sportswear, Riedl Textil has just succumbed to the charms of silk. The winter 2009/2010 collection gives centre stage to a number of versions: wool and silk blends, silk cottons and crêpes. Keeping the emphasis on softness with a more loungewear spirit, Riedl Textil offers cotton interlocks with a brushed inner surface, stitched ribs, cotton/Modal/polyester blends and wonderfully soft and flowing MicroModal. New organic cottons complete the collection of bamboo knits developed over the last few seasons. Riedl Textil has also launched a unit in Hungary, employing 40 staff in the manufacture of womenswear. Initially set up to produce customers’ private brands, Riedl Textil could use the production unit to launch its own range of finished products in the long run.

DARQUER EXPANDS ITS READY-TO-WEAR COLLECTION

The new developments in Darquer’s collection of laces for ready-to-wear are not likely to go unnoticed: creating these giant André Mare-style motifs involved developing a special machine capable of handling their oversized design, inspired by turn-of-the century motifs when lace was still hand-made. With their exceptional 32 cm repeat, these designs can be used on their own to decorate the front of a dress. “It took us over two months to develop designs on this scale,” underlines Frédéric Rumigny, creative manager at Darquer. In addition to these five designs, Frédéric Rumigny has come up with an equally exceptional collection of “graffiti” laces, bringing together Haute Couture and street-art in incredible Leavers lace with an Urban Chic theme - denim grounds, patch motifs, fabric effects, tags and more figurative motifs of buildings and people - come in an impressive range of lengths and widths.

LENZING LAUNCHES MICROMODAL AIR

The Austrian manufacturer took advantage of Interfilière for the official launch of MicroModal Air, the world’s finest cellulose textile fibre. Protected by a patent, this innovative fibre made from beech-wood is environmentally friendly and specially designed for the intimates market. Finer and softer than all its predecessors, MicroModal Air allows for the creation of amazingly airy knits. Since using this type of fibre requires state-of-the-art equipment and know-how Lenzing works in close collaboration with its customers. The yarns can be produced on high-performance spinning frames up to a count of 225 Nm. Once spun, MicroModal Air yarns require specific processing techniques, using machines suitable for these very fine counts. The very first samples of MicroModal Air weigh in at less than 100g and offer a particularly even and uniform surface.

DESSEILLES RESTRUCTURES ITS COLLECTIONS

Having recently succeeded in restoring its growth curve, reporting a 30% increase for Desseilles Calais, the lacemaker has reorganised its collections to bring them into line with production segments. The group’s laces are now all sold under the Desseilles name, while Launa covers all knit and embroidery activity. The starting price lace collection, Fairy, is produced in both France and Latvia and offers a modern take on classic styling. More technical and sophisticated, the entirely French-made Insolente line targets a fashion-oriented market with more volatile and switched on consumers. The key element of the restructure is the launch of the new Révolution line in a market with room for expansion: highly technical Leavers lace created on Karl Mayer machines and sold for between 2.20 and 4 euros. It is available in some fifteen exceptional designs.