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Design

Stoll revives devoré knit technique

Leading German flat knitting machine builder Stoll is giving new life to an ancient method of embellishing fabrics with the introduction of its Stoll-devoré knit© technique for flat knitting.

28th November 2012

Knitting Industry
 |  Reutligen

Knitwear, Knitted Accessories, Collections, Colours/​Trends

 

Leading German flat knitting machine builder Stoll is giving new life to an ancient method of embellishing fabrics with the introduction of its Stoll-devoré knit© technique for flat knitting.

Originally devoré (from the French devorer- meaning to devour) fabrics, also known as burn-out effects were made by painting or applying a devorant paste onto a mixed fibre fabric. The devorant destroyed (burns out) viscose and cellulose based fibres such as cotton, and left other fibres such as synthetics, wool and silk intact. It is used to best effect on Velvet fabric where the viscose pile is eaten away and the silk backing remains in place. Devorants are also used to burn holes in cellulose fabrics such as 100% cotton and linen to create a lace effect fabric but the holes in the fabrics are prone to fraying.

A devoré like technique was developed on flat knitting machines many decades ago and the Stoll-devoré knit© technique is based on this. The pattern technique offers once again a unique method of knitting transparent and opaque areas simultaneously in a fabric.

“It enables you to design transparency into your knits just as you might know from the appearance of burn-out techniques or so called devoré fabrics. We call it Stoll-devoré knit®,” Stoll says.

“Beside the sophisticated look which comes across with this technology there are other particular finesses related to this stitch formation.”

“Using fine and coarse gauge yarns in one and the same knit, a considerable reduction of weight can be obtained. This directly translates into savings on material and costs especially for coarse gauge fabrics and precious yarns.”

Technique

The single jersey basic structure (SJ) is formed by a thin, transparent monofilament yarn or binding thread and the motif effect is achieved by selecting stitches which are formed by thicker yarn. This yarn is called the motif yarn. The needles that are not selected for the stitch will be driven out and the motif yarn will be laid-in as float. Both yarns will be sunk together.

Examples of the Stoll-devoré knit© technique can be seen in the company’s FLAMBOYANT - Stoll Trend Collection AW 2013-14

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