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Fibres/​Yarns

The Softer Side of Tailoring: Knitwear Recreates Woven Classics

It bears repeating: Knitwear is having a moment. With current catwalks full of knitted dresses, sweater coat hybrids, and oversized jumpers, knitwear’s next evolution is into more tailored territory. For Autumn/Winter 2014, knitwear borrows compact structures, graphic patterns, and yarn configurations more typically seen in woven fabrics. Many of these looks incorporate wide knitting and cut-and-sew techniques.

22nd May 2013

Knitting Industry
 |  New York & Shanghai

Knitwear, Knitted Outerwear, Knitted Accessories

 

It bears repeating: Knitwear is having a moment. With current catwalks full of knitted dresses, sweater coat hybrids, and oversized jumpers, knitwear’s next evolution is into more tailored territory. For Autumn/Winter 2014, knitwear borrows compact structures, graphic patterns, and yarn configurations more typically seen in woven fabrics. Many of these looks incorporate wide knitting and cut-and-sew techniques.

Hiroaki Taki of fancy yarn spinner Takizen believes, “Knitwear is comfortable to wear, fitting the motion of human being, and can express the merit of the raw material better than woven fabric.”

“This is definitely a trend that’s gaining traction,” agrees Ty Bhojwani, head of Brilliant Global Knitwear. “More and more people want to be comfortable at work… however, they do want to look more polished. Knitwear pieces travel very well, retain their shape, and often are more sophisticated and dressier than wovens.”

“We use a lot of double knits to achieve these looks, in fine counts of Merino wool, and even cotton and cotton/rayon blends. In addition to solid pieces, we are being asked to develop a tremendous number of patterns: geometric plaids, dots, animal, and abstract.”

Spinners and knitters were dropping hints about the use of knitwear in place of wovens at Spinexpo Shanghai in March. At Yarns & Colors, a tailored ensemble from Max Mara combined an oversized check with a small graphic jacquard, both knit from specially developed yarns. General Manager Carlo Marinoni explains, “Fit is the most important—knits used as wovens should not fit like sweaters.” The key lies in finding a compromise between weight and stitch tension.

Woven like knits will be on show at SPINEXPO's New Yor and Shanghai shows this year.

Mr. Marinoni believes that at typical gauges of 12 to 14, knits are too heavy for tailored jackets or trousers. “By using 18 gg you can reach a tailored outlook with a lighter weight, imparting luxury but keeping material costs lower.” For A/W, Yarns and Colors is working in noble fibres such as mohair, alpaca, cashmere, and angora, used alone or in blends with wool or nylon.

“’SNITS” is the name GTIG Hubo (formerly GTIG Hualian) gives their range of knits developed to resemble wovens. Sweater yarns are given a slightly different twist to create the smoother, tighter look of a woven structure; while yarns developed for wide knitting, such as poly/rayon, linen, or cotton, can be knit in heavier gauge double knits or jacquards on circular knit machines. They are also combining sweater yarns and circular knitting yarns in bonded or interlock structures.

Another advantage to these compact knits is the ability to embellish them with prints, or to apply functional finishes such as soil-release, bacteriostatic, and FR, according to GTIG Hubo.

Brilliant Global, GTIG Hubo, Yarns & Colors will exhibit at SPINEXPO New York (16-17-18 July 2013)  and Shanghai (3-4-5 September 2013).

www.spinexpo.com

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