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An invigorated Filo Milan reveals latest changes

Janet Prescott

Italian yarn show majors on sustainability from the get-go, with a dedicated area for knitting.

13th October 2021

Janet Prescott
 |  Milan

Knitwear, Knitted Outerwear

Filo Milan yarns returned optimistically to conventional formats at the end of September, held in its relatively new setting in Milan’s MICO Exhibition centre. It is obvious that a great deal of thought has gone into priorities for the exhibition.

The 56th edition was seen as a boost indicating confidence for the future of the whole textile industry starting at the beginning of the supply chain. In addition the online Filo 365 marketplace was launched at this edition, ‘as a concrete and decisive working tool,’ indicating the serious changes which have taken place in the past year.

Recycling is sitting alongside first use yarns. This fact was highlighted by several exhibitors with their own way of incorporating new material and ideas into their ranges

For the first time, developments for knitwear were allocated their own space. A Filo for Knitwear showcased yarns specifically developed for knitting, responding to requests from the market said Its creator, Gianni Bologna who has long been sceptical about the value of turning out fashion trends each season.

Sustainable Area at Filo. © Filo

A renewed emphasis on knitting as a smart and versatile way of interpreting trends, using circular and flat systems has inspired many of the main mills for the 2022 and 23 season. The new knitting area, Un Filo per la maglia embraced several well-known names:

Azeta Filati, Cotonificio Olcese Ferrari, Elasten, Filatura Alma, Fil 3, Filmar, Filpa 1974, Garanti, Ghezzi, Ilaria Manifatture, Linificio e Canapificio Nazionale.

Linen and hemp have seen requests across the board in this summer’s shows in Europe, as companies search for eco-friendly, disposable yarns with strong fashion credentials for a natural yet sophisticated look. Several spinners responded. Zegna Baruffa Lane Borgosesia with its top-notch, high-quality yarns for weaving, knitting and jersey showed yarn carefully allied to moods and the times.

Filo Flow project goals

Filo strengthened its strong commitment to sustainability throughout, especially in the Filo Flow trend area which is intended to be the focus of sustainability; most companies have joined. Filo’s approach includes encouraging sustainable criteria for environmental and ethical processes   linked to the supply chain.

Trend Area. © Filo

Asahi Kasei promoted both Roica and Bemberg in eco terms, highlighting various fashion collections using Bemberg which results from a smart-tech circular process with cotton. Zerobarracento is a gender-neutral emerging outerwear brand focusing on zero-waste product development creating kimonos, padded jackets and wrap dresses; likewise new brands Maurizio Miri and slow fashion Waxewul aiming for ecologically sound products are choosing it.

TICA Yarns is a new range chosen by I Cotoni di Albini Spa, of the Albini Group, specialising in the production of high-end yarns made with noble, sustainable and traceable fibres.  

Recycling takes off

Recycling is sitting alongside first use yarns. This fact was highlighted by several exhibitors with their own way of incorporating new material and ideas into their ranges; companies like Linsieme and Monticolor recycle raw materials derived from renewables. Recycled wool fibre obtained from both pre- and post-consumer garments, and colour selection is still done by hand.

For the winter season 2022/2023, Filatura C4 showed a new collection in recycled wool, Recyplus, which includes 41 colours, in a stock service It has a minimum wool content of 90%, with more than half coming from the wool regeneration process, GRS certified.

Italfil presented classical and technical yarn for underwear and for circular knitwear while for sportwear they added a line mixing wool with recycled and compostable fibre.

Paolo Monfermoso. © Filo

Avia developed classic and fancy yarn types with GRW Global recycled certification in a line of Eco sustainable mixed yarns. Filatura Astro re-uses various materials, recovering more than 2k tons of pre- and post-consumer dyed cotton and wool rags, involving more than 2,000 tons of post-consumer dyed cotton and wool.

Filatura C4 also recycled glittering polyester which caught a current mood for shine and party looks, a 1/14 certified collection in recycled polyester

Novelties attract

The Trend Area was totally redesigned to keep the characteristics that have attracted visitors, making it a working tool for buyers. It was meant to be an explosion of colours and materials, as the first area experienced by visitors.

Visitors in person again at Filo. © Filo

Some big names participated in the edition; Lenzing showed various fibres and innovations chiming with the sustainable focus; Tencel with Refibra technology recycling post-industrial and consumer cotton; Tencel Modal Indigo with dope dye fibre for denim; Tencel Luxe which is a continuous lyocell yarn to meet the needs of silk industry and Tencel Carbon Zero – Eco Clean. The Tencel yarns are already used in varied products n the textile-apparel areas and furniture now also found in agriculture and biodegradable packaging.

Roica presented a contemporary wardrobe bringing the first sustainable bike uniform made with Scott Racing Team, Aurora collection by Wolford, denim garments by G-Star Raw, and hosiery by Sarah Borghi.

Discussions

A series of discussions centred around the philosophy of sustainability no doubt trying to pin down the elusive meaning and contemporary attitudes and was held in the Networking Area of the exhibition. One of these dialogues discussed the production process adopted by Lenzing’s bio-refinery, led by Carlo Covini, Lenzing’s Business Development Manager.

The 56th edition was seen as a boost indicating confidence for the future of the whole textile industry starting at the beginning of the supply chain. © Filo

‘Dialogues with nature’ was led by the designer Tiziano Guardini, with a new approach to fashion named ECOuture based on concepts of ‘tailoring, innovation and respect.’ Experimentation centred around the search for special materials which are particularly sustainable and cruelty free, research for processing, shapes, and content linking ethics and aesthetics.

Sustainable colours

The importance for the supply line of dyeing and dyestuffs is obvious; sustainabiity needs coherence from the beginning, and for some years a group of dyeing mills has been present, showing environmentally responsible products explains Filo.

Davifil continued its sustainability focus by researching naturally coloured summer and winter yarns. Tintoria Mancici makes natural fibre dyes and one of the firm’s specialities is cashmere tops and flock, in particular for luxury fibres, wool cashmere, alpaca, vicuna and silk. Colours went from undyed looks to paler eco pastel greens and flashes of bright red and shiny elements.

E-Filo - 365 Days of Yarn - continues online at:

https://marketplace.filo.it/en/

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