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Market focus for yarns expands at Filo

Janet Prescott

Filo Milan Autumn/Winter 2016/17 showed clear trends and many different yarns for winter and trans-seasonal use, Janet Prescott reports.

30th March 2015

Janet Prescott
 |  Milan

Knitwear, Collections, Colours/​Trends

Filo Milan Autumn/Winter 2016/17 showed clear trends and many different yarns for winter and trans-seasonal use, most of them for knitting and some weaving.

The exhibitors were mainly high-end brand spinners, with slightly more overseas companies, including Swiss spinners, Turkish mills, Spanish, Portuguese, plus a British and a Slovenia exhibitor. 

Filo Milan Autumn/Winter 2016/17. © Janet Prescott

Market focus for yarns expands: there are signs that yarns for interiors, accessories and hand knits are becoming more important, There’s increasing demand for fashionable handknitting yarns including more expensive blended fibres like silk and cashmere, alpaca, merino, and mohair.

Natural fibres and precious yarn were to the fore. This season yarns were thicker, blended for extra wintry texture and warmth. for knitting, jackets and overcoats, Polyamide, polyester, silk, linen and metallic fibres used in blends, mainly for the glamour factor and the handle. Botto Poala 2/200 super high quality, merino/cashmere, silk/wool.

Filo Milan Autumn/Winter 2016/17. © Janet Prescott

The trend for substantial woollen yarns continues with many yarns brushed and teased for hairiness.  Warm winter yarns in Shetland, Donegals and British wools at woollen spinners Gardiner were earmarked for tweedy jumpers, the qualities named after Yorkshire landmarks.

Italian British style: Italian mills produced British-style yarns with marls, melanges and a retro, knitting pattern look, proving popular. GTI, with special yarns and fancies had a new 75mohair/15wool; reporting customers want an irregular look for surface interest, with texture effects different blends and twists.  Marchi e Fildi had 3-D soft-touch yarns and fabrics, for vintage crepes and knits.

Filo Milan Autumn/Winter 2016/17. © Janet Prescott

Fancy designs and blends popular: e.g. Ilaria’s knitting yarns featured fancy designs and blends of precious and man-mades to create slubs, frisés, neps and stretch.   Mohair blends and 67summer kid/28nylon/nylon 5%wool, 60 nylon/metallised polyester, 80 wool/20 alpaca, and 5 wool.

Jersey- a key look: in various blends and marls, with random dye effects and coloured knops to give an individual look. Turkish exhibitors Garanti Iplik melange yarns, various blends.  Jerseys included linen, silk and cashmere with wool, fancy melange yarns with jaspé, mouliné, flammé and mini tweed among them.  Orteks showed circular knitted fabric, including semi transparent looks.

Filo Milan Autumn/Winter 2016/17. © Janet Prescott

Colours inspired by nature:  Flowers, bark, greenery.  Winter pink, kingfisher blue, primrose yellow, light blue, and deeper colours like ruby red, dark gold, dark blue and silver, Individual colours knitted up in different shades. Large colour cards and stock by most exhibitors. Spoerry introduced dyed yarns aimed at knitting.

Little flecks of colour: Polipelli range of jersey yarns, melange colours, and hollow blown and cut yarns.  Cotonificio Olcese’s pastel jerseys had micro white random effects. Salt and pepper effects at Botto Poala.

Filo Milan Autumn/Winter 2016/17. © Janet Prescott

Shine important; Magnificent yarns from Lurex  came in exotic colours, deep jewel tones, with  transparency and special dyeing compatibility for various yarns and blends. Small points of shine in many yarns.

Interesting fibres and blends: Pozzi Electa Micromodal/cashmere, coloured metals, cotton, viscose, bamboo, ramie and hemp, no-odour Crabyon chitosan, Litia of Slovenia’s ring spun yarns in cashmere, silk, hemp,  and blends with Tencel, modal, cupro.

Filo Milan Autumn/Winter 2016/17. © Janet Prescott

Jersey, hosiery and flat knitting; Safil 100% kid mohair, jersey hosiery and flat knitting suggestions.  Wool/acrylic, low pilling acrylic and soft alpaca /wool. 

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