Karl Mayer and the Lenzing Group have announced a joint innovation project aimed at advancing warp knitting with scalable cellulose fibre solutions, debuting during Premiere Vision in Paris from 3–5 February 2026.

The collaboration focuses on identifying new, efficient ways to process Tencel Lyocell and Modal fibres with Micro Technology on warp knitting machines, while demonstrating suitability for high-quality textile applications. The partners say the fibre technology enables fine counts and therefore finer yarns, supporting the production of smooth and consistent fabrics that deliver softness and lightness, alongside improved drape and movement.

While cellulose fibres offer consistent fibre length uniformity, warp-knitted fabric production from these fibres can pose technical challenges. To address this, Lenzing has contributed expertise in fibre production and yarn development, including downstream spinning, while Karl Mayer has brought its experience in warp beam production from staple fibres and processing on high-performance warp knitting machines.

A key objective of the project has been to develop yarns with minimal hairiness to prevent lint contamination during beaming and warp knitting. The partners also highlighted the importance of a uniform yarn cross-section to ensure tensile strength when processing several thousand threads at maximum speed.

Four yarns were selected using two fibre raw materials and two spinning processes. The partners opted for Ring Compact and SIRO Compact spinning technologies, with Bernd Schleuchardt, senior manager apparel in Lenzing’s business development division, stating that the approach supports industrial scalability and opens up new commercial opportunities for cellulose fibres in warp knitting.

The yarns were warped to a high standard and processed on a high-performance warp knitting machine at gauge E 28 with two guide bars. Each yarn produced three different apparel-focused fabrics, including a three-stitch tulle net, a close-knit fabric with counter-lapped open tricot lap, and a dense-surface fabric made using counter-lapped atlas lap.

Processing trials indicated that SIRO Compact delivered the best performance, with significantly reduced hairiness leading to less fibre abrasion and lower machine contamination. Markus Otte, senior expert textile development at Karl Mayer, said the project demonstrated that efficient cellulose fibre processing on knitting machines is achievable with the right fibres and spinning process, with further optimisation work underway to increase output.

The results will be presented as a capsule collection spanning lingerie, innerwear and lifestyle pieces at the Lenzing stand 6P30 during Premiere Vision.

www.karlmayer.com

www.lenzing.com