Surprising and unexpected were the words most often heard from exhibitors at last week’s Interfiliere, which kick started the Summer 2010 season, organisers said.

Organisers say that fears raised prior to the show regarding the uncertain economic climate were swept aside and generally speaking, exhibitors found the session particularly positive and praised the level of professionalism from buyers. Although brands tended to be represented by fewer buyers, their calibre goes without saying: keen to work closely with fabric specialists, accelerate order confirmation, consolidate relationships with suppliers, while seeking out new partners. .

Interfiliere attracted a total of 11,066 visitors, 47% of which came from France.

Green was once again the dominant theme in Paris. PM bio is a new range of fair-trade organic cotton fabrics launched by the Italian company Piave Maitex. Aware of the urgent need for cleaner production to preserve the planet, Piave Maitex has undertaken to ensure that this range satisfies ecological manufacturing conditions. Applying fair-trade principles as part of its ethical approach, the company has received GOTS compliance certification (Global Organic Textile Standard) from the ICEA (Institute for Ethics and Environmental Certification). In addition to this PM Bio line, available in 10 different colourways, Piave Maitex has also added a new matt/glossy striped viscose using recycled polyester to its Green Line range of natural materials (cotton/linen, cashmere). Going by the name of New Life, the fabric is a 40-gauge viscose jersey knit.

Advansa says it has had no trouble convincing knit specialists with its latest development,   Biophyl. Produced using renewable resources, the Biophyl fibre is created from corn sucrose and transformed into the Sorona polymer using an organic process. It has been included in collections produced by Handel & Diller which has won over its German client Bruno Banani, specializing in men’s underwear. Piave Maitex is also continuing its ecological approach and offering Biophyl in various jerseys. Since producing the polymer consumes 30% less energy and reduces CO2 emissions by 63% in comparison to nylon 6, Biophyl also offers additional skin benefits such as fluid, silky and comfortable and it dries quickly.

Eco fleece

Fleece knit specialist Catland is developing a whole collection of highly original wool fleeces in bamboo viscose with various finishes: self-coloured, mottled, towelling, crushed, velvet, jacquard, piqué, waffle and flannelette. Catland is also offering two eco fleece lines: an undyed organic cotton range in various natural shades and a new range in organically-grown cotton, free of pesticides.

Convinced that natural fibres are the way forward, Catland is also innovating with a fleece made using milk casein and cotton and is continuing withits soya-based fleece. The environmentally-friendly feel of these two jerseys clearly appeals to clients who have used this aspect to their advantage.

Resolutely organic

Be Be Cotton doesn’t do things by halves. Its new collection of organic cotton knits features every possible variation and novelty finish in the domains of printing and knitting. The highlights of this organic collection are the very fresh openwork knits with light floral motifs created using energy-efficient pigment-printing, as well as a new collection of matching ribbons and bias binding in a slightly retro spirit, also made from organic cotton. The organic range, created using natural cotton dyes, also includes a gorgeous series of soft stripes as well as natural plains. Continuing in the same vein, Be Be Cotton has added a series of cotton and milk casein knits, as well as a varied range of Modal Cupro jacquard with a handle that is very close to silk.

Ultra -light touch

A new Sensitive fabric has just been added to Eurojersey’s highly successful range. The Italian company could not resist the ultra-light trend long and is introducing an ultra-light knit going by the name of Sensitive Touch. Created using a very fine gauge with 28% elastane, this 89g voile offers a lovely silky hand. Touch has obtained certification from Invista in the LYCRA Xtra Fine Collection Fibre category. Sensitive Touch can be used for garments worn next to the skin as well as shirts and beachwear.

Superfine

On the subject of fine gauges, specialist in ultrafine gauges, Willy Hermann does not intend to rest on its laurels. Having worked with machine builders to develop 44 gauge fabrics in 2000, 50 gauge and 54 gauge in 2006 and 60 gauge in 2007, the Austrian company’s R&D department is hoping to launch an even finer ‘Superfine in the near future. “Getting the product established on the market took us from 2000 to 2005. It took time to explain. The market is ready now. It understands the concept and wants more,” sums up Martin Hermann. In the meantime, the knit specialist which was set up in 1936, launched ‘Invisible Hem & Jacquard’ a retro-style seamless product with an integrated waistband and no side seams.

 “Interfilière is very important to Maglificio Ripa since it offers us good visibility in foreign markets. The Russian market, in particular, is well represented; we believe that we can tap into this client-base,” reveals Luca Bianco who runs the Italian company.

His announcement that 2009 will be a year of consolidation and expansion for his company is based on the performance of his R&D department which will continue to innovate in MR’s favourite domain, lightweight materials. A number of new natural blends, such as linen and cashmere blends, have been added to the 44-gauge Light range for the show. Particularly well-suited to fine and light fabrics, these materials also offer a very soft handle.

Italian company Eusebio SpA, established in 1954 and now employing around one hundred people, has steered its way through troubled waters in 2008 with stable turnover of €18 million. Boasting fully-integrated facilities, including 70 circular and flat machines, Eusebio has succeeded in maintaining its prices, taking advantage of 2008 to add two new finishing machines worth half a million Euros. Eusebio’s collections offer a wider range of choice and style with a new and varied collection of viscose and polyamide dévorés, rounding off the range of cotton dévoré fabrics. Indicating high demand for laminated articles against a background of micro designs, Eusebio is also relying on a bamboo line.

Unfinished edges

Moovix is the name chosen for a brand new polyamide and elastane locknit, specially designed for unfinished edges. Moovix does not fray and can be moulded very easily. It offers 4-way stretch thanks to a special construction, ensuring that this locknit offers the all-important comfort factors for shapewear products. Available in plain or printed versions, it comes in a range of weights from 80g to 210g.

Established in 1971, the Italian company Eurostick started off specializing in laminated articles for sportswear and intimates before setting up a knitting facility several years later. Its vertically-integrated production, from creation and design to dyeing and finishing allows a wide range of finishes.

The Italian company, Carvico, is also continuing to revolutionize the world of locknit fabrics. Following in the footsteps of Tecno Revolutional, a new generation ‘no-roll’ locknit ideal for unfinished edges, light and ultra-fine like a second skin, anti-UV and resistant (to wear, chlorine and sand), this new arrival is called Revolutional Energy, a fabric offering very high support capacity and amazing stretch properties. Carvico says that it is perfectly suited to activewear and ‘plus size’ garments and considerably reduces muscle fatigue by rendering movement more efficient. The latest addition to the family, Revolutional Shiro, is a white polyester version offering an ultra opaque finish which is ideal for transfer-printing.

Natural fibre power net?

Taubert is said to be in the final stages of a complex product development which will yield the first natural fibre power net created on a jacquard raschel machine. The question is , can bamboo be coaxed into submission? Using natural fibres to create this type of jacquard is certainly no easy task. Taubert has chosen a blend of 13% bamboo, 15% elastane and 72% polyamide. The power net will be available in several designs.

Exhibiting at Interfilière for the first time in January, Taiwanese company DJIC confirmed its satisfaction, having met around twenty serious contacts in three days. “We hope to conclude agreements and secure new clients such as JP Gaultier and Valège,” reveals Daniel Wu, Managing Director of DJIC Limited. With a client portfolio that already includes Victoria Secrets, Wacoal and Diesel, DJIC is able to cater for different styles of brand since its vast collection of technical knits and fashion-forward prints has something for everyone. Set up in 1988, the company employs 66 people and generates turnover of €2 billion. Vertically integrated production enables it to offer polyamide knits (stretch, viscose, Coolmax, organic cotton and bamboo), wovens (poplin, twill, jacquard, dobby) and polyester nylon stretch fabrics in a variety of different blends. The Taiwanese company also specializes in a whole series of specific finishes.

Novelty tulles

Since purchasing new multi-bar Raschel machines, Liebaert can now offer a new range of novelty tulles. The machines can be used to create a whole range of bespoke designs for the customer, which allows for an unlimited choice of novelty designs as well as significant time and cost-savings since customers’ designs were handled externally until now. Previously costing €24/25 per metre, this type of novelty fabric can now be produced for €14/15 for quite simple designs and up to €21 for more complicated designs. The new machines can either be used to create novelty tulles to be coordinated with conventional jacquards or Liebaert’s star product: “space-less” spacers.

Noyon

Noyon took advantage of Interfilière to launch several new products for different markets: firstly, it released a silk Leavers lace for major lingerie brands, using a cutting-edge technique developed by its R&D department and recognised know-how.

It also presented control briefs, combining shaping elements with Calais lace, for companies specializing in more functional articles. Noyon also joined forces with the large cup-size specialist, Empreinte for the exclusive launch of a specific product: 100% polyester rigid lace which can be moulded for plus sizes.

Ultra lingerie

For this sixth edition, partnerships between brands exhibiting at Salon International de la Lingerie and Interfilière’s fabric specialists united professionals around a particularly successful catwalk show on the theme of “GOURMANDISE”: a feast for the eyes with something to suit everyone’s tastes. Creativity was omni-present in a magnificent showcase that could not go unnoticed.

The jury consisting of Nicole Bernardo (Fashion Consultant, Le Bon Marché), Jos Berry (Director, Concepts Paris style agency), Mathilde Bill, (Journalist, Cosmopolitan and Le Monde), Marie-Christine Delacroix (Editor-in-chief, Madame Figaro), Édith Keller (CEO, Carlin International, creative strategy agency), Christian Palix, (CEO, Yes For Lov), Florence Peyrichou (Lingerie Director, Promostyl), Nelly Rodi (CEO, Nelly Rodi Agency), Dany Sanz (Artistic Director and Designer, Make up Forever), Christine Walter Bonini (Artistic Director, Esmod), awarded.