Merino wool innovations on show at Spin Expo
29th August 2012, Shanghai
The Woolmark Company will showcase a selection of Merino wool innovations, trends and industry services at Spin Expo in Shanghai this September.
Some of the highlight product developments on show include:
The latest garments are said to show the versatility of the Merino Vintage technology for producing washed-out effects in Merino wool garments. The technology is said to be perfect for flat-bed knitwear, as well as circular knit cut and sew.
A vintage look is created in the yarn by blending wool fibres possessing different affinities for dyes. When the yarn or fabric is dyed a vintage look results.
“Forget smooth flat pristine knitted wool and take a look at Sculptured Merino, a naturally creased unique garment in Merino wool,” The Woolmark Company says.
A new yarn coupled with specially controlled knitting and finishing yields a 3-dimensional fabric which is said to be lightweight yet warm and incredibly stretchy. Garments can be rolled up into a bag taken out and worn straight away.
According to The Woolmark Company, Merino wool possesses a unique property - felting - which is often seen as a problem but in this innovation is a virtue because it creates texture and casual aspects ideal for casual wardrobes. In this innovation the yarn is specially treated so that it felts randomly along its length. When knitted into a garment and finished, the randomness of the felting is said to create a unique boiled wool effect that is soft and resilient.
Sometimes known as ecological fur this innovation permits a natural fur to be created without using the pelt of an animal. A combination of sliver-knitting technology with mercerised Merino fibres gives the lustrous look of fur fibre from pure new wool. Special dyeing and finishing techniques create the natural fur colouring.
“The creased look is often the hallmark of casual, and Merino wool is versatile enough to deliver,” The Woolmark Company says. A deliberate creased effect for Merino wool knitwear can be created using traditional spraying and steam pressing equipment; the innovation here is that the effect can now be made permanent to washing. Multi-dimensional creasing adds extra value to lightweight jersey knitwear.
The Woolmark Company will also present the new season of The Wool Lab which the company says has becomes an essential element in global brands’ and designers’ selection and review process when choosing wool for their collections. The Wool Lab is a guide to the best wool trends and products, created to inspire and inform fashion and textile professionals about the quality and beauty of Merino wool. A permanent laboratory has been set up in Florence, Italy to source the best quality wool products worldwide and to identify the emerging trends in fashion, design, art, pop culture, music and other fields.
Nine inspirational themes are presented for Autumn Winter 2013/14. Some are macro-trends, “long-waves” moving through fashion and lifestyle with endurable influence. Others are emerging new trends, reflecting the esprit du temps and the upcoming needs of the future market. Each theme is represented by a collection of yarns and fabrics that are commercially available, as well as some exclusive pieces from The Woolmark Company’s archives, to stimulate a contemporary re-interpretation.
“The latest technological innovations in treatments and finishes are very important, giving fabrics such as jersey, features of outstanding softness suitable for high performance products in the active sports sector,” The Woolmark Company says.
Another development from The Woolmark Company is the launch of a new service which the company will provide to the apparel industry, ‘Learn about wool’, that provides retailers, designers and manufacturers with manuals, presentations and samples that contain valuable information on wool and working with wool.
The new educational package, ‘Learn about Wool’, comprises manuals, presentations and actual samples of wool. This comprehensive package tackles subjects such as manufacturing knitwear and woven wear, caring for a wool sweater and understanding the wool suit. The courses are aimed at those who are new to wool or to textiles in general and are suitable for self-coaching or training in a classroom setting.
Author: Billy Hunter