There has been a seismic shift in the textile trade show landscape, as traditional trade show qualities evolve into new experiences and expectations. As a regular textile trade show traveller, I was somewhat perplexed at my last visit to Premiere Vision about where all the European mills have gone?

Premiere Vision Paris, once the scion of the European textile scene, where strict guidelines had to be adhered to even to exhibit at the European-only show, has made changes and opened up to globalisation. I am not knocking the new direction that PV is taking. I like the show, the multiple sectors it has morphed into, a move away from the traditional shirting and fashion qualities it once offered.

Now it is a global reach of fashion, outdoors, sports, intimate apparel and manufacturing alongside great sustainability section with high educational values - representative of the global textile business, although again, whilst my allegiance is with PV due to starting off there in the 1990s, I am now struggling to differentiate the new PV with Texworld, which is situated down the road. The growing similarities of these two shows could lead to a ‘survival of the fittest’ outcome.

So, where are the Europeans? A few calls with colleagues, and I hotfooted it over to Milano Unica, the high-end fabrics and accessories show, for a first visit. Wow! Am I glad I did that - this was a hunch that paid off, and I was not disappointed. European know-how and creativity are alive and kicking, situated in four halls all dedicated to fibres, textiles, and trims - oh, heaven sent!

And it would seem, according to the post-show results, I wasn’t the only one in pursuit of the European legacy of textile craft - the show closed with higher attendance by international buyers. France (+8.5%) and the USA (+13.5%) were the two most represented countries overall. Buyer attendance also increased in Korea (+10%), Canada (+6.6%), Germany (+8%), and Japan (+2.4%), while Great Britain and Spain also confirmed strong attendance.

Whilst the show showcased Italy’s best on the textile and trim scene, it also hosted a strong contingent of British mills and interesting Korean and Japanese Observatories.

Like a kid in a candy shop, it was the Milano Unica Tendenze Area that really hit the spot! An immersive experience under literal clouds of white tulle. Every fabric touched was sensational, the textures, the technicity, and the creativity all in one location, simply displayed, allowing for the fabrics to be touched, to stand proud without any distractions.

The overall concept for the season is Cosmetic, broken down into three areas, all of which are built on the idea that fabric-like skins are a surface, with shared codes and values. From Cosmetic/Natural, a raw, natural delivery with exciting textures and organic-inspired structures. The six-tone suggested color palette had green tea and terracotta as anchor tones, surrounded by sky blue and lavender pink.

Cosmetic/Shadow offered a play on light through shadows and density as satins and iridescent surfaces highlighted the blush tones emerging. The final trend direction, Cosmetic/Sun focused on glowing beauty and protection, with breathability and water repellent fabrics. Busy surface and textures heightened structures - with a punchy palette of brights.

The video visuals, playing on loop and projected onto the backdrop of the trend area, heads morphing and absorbing the fabric directions for the season, once again confirmed the keep-it-simple mood. Kudos to the team behind this area, as it was one of the better ones I have seen for some time.

Sustainability wasn’t shouted about through the forum, as it shouldn’t be; it is supposed to be an inherent part of today’s textile DNA, and I appreciated the fact that the fabrics were subtly indicated through symbols of social justice (CSR), Climate Action, Chemical Safety, Biodiversity, and Circular Economy.

I love the global textile scene; I live and breathe it, but I also love the creativity of the Italian and European mills, which have the advantage of centuries of heritage in creating textiles. But then we mustn’t forget it does come at a price.

In addition, are brands and designers still playing it safe, sourcing classic plain cloth with high-tech finishes rather than the high-level tactical creativity in the trend forum? Will these qualities, so evident in the trend forum, be hitting the Spring/Summer 2027 collections? We will just have to wait and see. But either way, I am already diarying in the Milano Unica Fall/Winter event, I am not missing that!

What seems to have driven the traction of Milano Unica, making it well attended by international buyers, is that it is a niche show. Here’s hoping they keep it niche going forward. You can’t be everything to everyone, and this show proved that keeping it simple conveyed understated luxury, heightened quality, supreme technicity and creativity, textile legacies, and a solid high-end market.  La vita è bella - "Life is beautiful”, especially at Milano Unica.

www.milanounica.it/en

About Louisa Smith

Louisa Smith is an international textile trend consultant who works with companies throughout the supply chain. A regular on the international trade show circuit, Louisa presents textile trends and monitors consumer attitudes that shape future seasons. 

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